Taking a Trip to Puerto Viejo in Costa Rica

Contrasting most Costa Rican excursions, a trip to Puerto Viejo de Talamanca takes you to a Caribbean escape where Atlantic waters meet palm-lined shores.

boat in Puerto Viejo

When most people think of Costa Rica, they envision zip lines over lush jungle canopies, wide Pacific beaches set against stunning mountain backdrops and hordes of sunblock-lathered gringos wandering about. Because, really, that is much of Costa Rica. The tourist parts on the Pacific side, anyway.

The Atlantic side is different. In stark contrast to the rest of the country, the Limon province has a Caribbean vibe that makes it feel more like Jamaica than Central America. Many of today’s locals are descended from Jamaicans who migrated to Costa Rica in the 19th century. From Caribbean food to music and local dialect, these Afro-Costa Ricans have kept their culture alive. While the regional hub is the capital city of Limon, most travelers make their way south to the town of Puerto Viejo.

street in puerto viejo

Getting to Puerto Viejo

San Jose International Airport is the largest and closest airport. Car rental agencies are ubiquitous at the airport and from there it’s a pretty simple shot. A five-hour drive, passing the nearby capital of San Jose and later the coastal city of Limón, delivers you to the town of Puerto Viejo de Talamanca. Going budget from the airport is almost as simple if not as expedient. The bus stop in front of the airport takes you to a bus terminal in San Jose at La Merced Park for about $1. From there it’s a quick taxi ride or a walk of about ten-minutes to Terminal MEPE and a direct bus to Puerto Viejo that costs about $10 USD.

What to Expect in Town

You’ll immediately notice you’ve come to the Caribbean. From the low color-splashed buildings to the reggae floating through the streets, this place bears little resemblance to the rest of the country. Perhaps the only similarity is that it's designed to receive tourists, which has its positives and negatives. There is no shortage of places to stay, eat and drink. Shops sell unique souvenirs, beach bars have drink specials and street hawkers sell everything from handmade jewelry to recreational products you would not mention to the local constabulary. But it’s easy to quickly get past the tourist trappings and enjoy the town for what it is, a little slice of authentic Caribbean culture with a laid-back vibe before serene palm-lined shores.

hotel in Puerto Viejo

Where to Stay

As one would expect in a travel-friendly hub, there are a lot of places to stay and many of them span from budget to mid-range. A few blocks back from the beach is where you’ll find the best mix of value, comfort and some buffer space between you and the center of town. The music from the handful of clubs that thump through most nights can be a bother if you’re looking to sleep. A spot like the KanWolaba Poshtel is ideal for many. Newly renovated rooms that are a decided cut above some of the older and moldier options around town face a central courtyard that gives the hideaway a communal feel. Modern accommodations at reasonable prices have minimalist style, reliable hot showers (not always a given in town) and personal outdoor lounging areas with hammocks and cafe tables.

Where to Eat

There is no shortage of places to find food in town. From Asian cuisine to artisanal pizza and barbecue, the eateries serve an array of palates. For an authentic experience, you can dine at a “soda.” While they vary, these down-to-earth restaurants are how most locals dine. They’re a step up from cafeterias while lacking the full-on ambiance of a higher-end restaurant. You can find some of the region’s freshest seafood and try Caribbean dishes that are a must for most visitors. Settle in at one with views of the street and watch the parade of life go by, which is especially lively in the early evening.

Enjoy the Nightlife

The vibe in Puerto Viejo changes after the sun goes down. Most places start at sunset with happy hour specials and clubs with DJs go into the wee hours.

While it never fully dips into the sinister, it is wise to keep your bearings the later it gets. Many people are there to party. Those on hand to serve this party tourist scene are not exactly the fine folk you will encounter on an afternoon stroll. No, danger doesn’t lurk in every shadow. But if you are engaged in activities that require shadowy spots, you might run afoul of some unsavory situations. Best to stick to populated well-lit spots on the main beat and go to your hotel at a reasonable hour.

beach in Puerto Viejo

Explore the Shores

You‘ll want to get out and explore and that likely means heading south along the coastal road. There are several beach areas that deserve mention as each is worth a visit. When you go south, a huge number of visitors do it by bike. You can rent a bike in town at a number of places. You can also hop on the local bus that runs up and down the coast a few times a day, disembarking from the center of town. To the immediate south, Playa Cocles is popular for surfing and swimming. Playa Chiquita offers a less-crowded escape with long stretches of sand backed by thick tropical forest. Punta Uva is a great place to swim in calm reef waters and Playa Grande has wide sandy beaches that meet the tiny coastal village of Manzanillo.

bus stop in Puerto Viejo

So break out your well-worn flip-flops, switch off your need to keep a schedule and ease into the island vibe on the Caribbean side of Costa Rica.